Depending on how much of what you add, you may have just the right balance of nitrogen to carbon. The evidence will be in some warmth from the composting action, and a change in the appearance and texture of the pile. Turning it to distribute air evenly through the pile can help it go a little faster. Keeping it moist, not wet will also help.

I am "cheating" with grow lights. A couple of years ago was my first year, and I had mixed success. Last year was the year of ducklings, so I was so wrapped up with my fuzzy lovelies that seed starting did not happen. This year things have settled down, and as I look back on my first effort, I think that I did not have enough nutrients soon enough after the seedlings sprouted for some of my plants. There are different opinions out there - it used to confuse me, but now my philosophy is to listen to what others have to say, and go with what makes sense to me. I have also used different methods at the same time just to see how things turned out. I would seriously consider a cold frame if I were avoiding grow lights. If you can, some good manure compost that is actively breaking down releases heat, so a good layer of that in a cold frame might work for you. Also, there are some plants that are just hardier than others. The cole crops (chard, cabbage, etc.) handle the cold better. Some seeds need to be wintersown, especially herbs. That, I learned from experience, so in a week I plan to wintersow catnip, mountain mint, lemon balm, kale, chard, and celery. Beans do well for me (I am in southern New England) planted outdoors from seed. Also, low tunnels (unheated covered garden beds) do amazingly well if they are set up correctly. We have growers producing baby greens throughout the winter in this area. So, perhaps you want to work with more greens, at least initially, the cold-hardier types. Another thought is microclimate - I have a south-facing deck. It is the warmest, sunniest place around. I use it for growing my heat and sun loving plants (peppers, tomatoes, melons). Growing vertically, I can get quite a few plants in a small space. I have to use shade cloth some days, and remember to water, water, water. But things grow well there. As I tell myself regularly, try, try, try again, keep going, do what makes sense, and at the same time keep reading and listening and learning. A friend told me he believes that each of us has a gift for growing certain kinds of plants. So far, I do well with garlic and sunroot. I do moderately well with beans and berries. The ducks are doing well. I will keep trying things and someday, maybe, feel that I know a little something!

Wanted to send an update on my attempts to grow hopniss, and see if anyone else here grows it and eats it. I have grown hopniss in a container on the deck and in a small spot in the back yard for two seasons.  I pulled a couple of tiny tubers out of the box on the deck this afternoon, boiled them, peeled one and ate it. Since a small percentage of people have allergic reactions to it, I am going slowly at first. I ate it plain, because I want to know what hopniss tastes like without any condiments, oil, salt, etc. It was pretty good.  Very starchy, anything but sweet, slightly nutty, earthy flavor. I want to move what I have had in the deck planter to another area - but I think I need to wait until spring.  On the other hand, if it is just going to overwinter, why not move it now? Anyone transplanted hopniss before?  If I recall correctly, when I ordered it, I received it in the spring.  

Hooray for Linda! It is such an encouragement to hear from people who are making these ideas work!

Our climates are different, but I can tell you what I am doing and have done, and perhaps that will give you some ideas, even apply to your place. I have been able to overwinter a number of things. Here in New England, midsummer is a good time to start beets, chard, kale, carrots, turnips, rutabaga, essentially greens and cole crops. You can also plant some green manures (plants that are not harvested but are turned into the soil once they grow a bit, to condition the soil). I use buckwheat and this year may try fava beans, too. Try mach (lamb's lettuce). I like it and it is a hardy green that I have been able to overwinter with just a row cover. Another one to try is sprouting broccoli, which you can plant now, cover in the winter, and have early broccoli in the spring.